We are always happy to advise by telephone on buying a puppy. We would much rather that you started with a suitable puppy than came to the club with a problem dog for us to sort out.

Commitment
Buying a puppy is a commitment to look after an adult dog for around fifteen years. You must be really sure that you are prepared to take on that commitment and the changes to your lifestyle that go with it. All dogs require daily exercise (some breeds, two hours or more), whatever the weather. Longer haired breeds require daily grooming. There will be additional bills for food, vaccinations, worming, grooming, insurance, holiday kennelling and vet’s bills for any accidents or illnesses.

Home Alone
Dogs are social pack animals and should not be left alone for long periods; although some breeds are better on their own than others. If you would have to regularly leave the dog alone for more than four hours a day we recommend that you consider getting an alternative pet.

Puppy or Adult?
Young puppies are hard work and need lots of time, attention and training. Older puppies often have problems caused by lack of socialisation. Adult dogs can also be time consuming and can bring with them problems from their earlier life. If you are considering adopting a rescue dog, try to find out as much as possible about its past and any potential problems.

Choosing a Puppy
The biggest mistake you can make is to fall in love with the first puppy you see, or, worse still, buy a puppy because you feel sorry for it.

A dog is for life. If you let your heart overrule your head for a few seconds, you may regret it for the next 15 years.

When you first go to view a litter, leave your children at home - they will pester you to buy immediately and you won’t be able to make an objective decision. Don’t be pressured by the breeder - a good breeder should agree to hold a puppy for a couple of days while you reach a decision. Go home and think very carefully. If you decide to buy, then is the time to go back with the children.

Even if you think you like the first litter you look at, try to see at least three different litters of puppies so that you have something to compare. Always insist on seeing the bitch and all the puppies in the litter, ideally at around 3-5 weeks old. If a ‘breeder’ tries to bring you a single puppy from “out the back”, they are either a dealer or have something to hide and you should leave immediately.

Assess the bitch, and the conditions in which the puppies are being reared. Are they indoors or outside? Are they clean? What is the breeder doing to socialise the puppies with household/garden noises? Ask to see a photo of the stud dog - the puppies’ father.

Puppies are normally ‘sold’ and a deposit paid from around three weeks onwards and are ready to go to their new homes from 8 weeks old. Avoid breeders who try to release puppies too early - growing up with the rest of the litter is part of a puppy’s learning process. If the puppy is older than around 10 weeks when you first go to see it, ask why the puppy/ies is/are still with the breeder - and consider why has no-one else has wanted to buy them. A puppy that is even older (particularly if it is the ‘last one’) is best avoided. It may already have been sold once and returned to the breeder because of a problem. Older puppies are harder to socialise and house train.

A good breeder will ask you lots of questions to make sure that you are a suitable person to have one of their puppies. In turn they will expect you to ask questions about the puppy, for a photocopy of the pedigree, and to see copies of the certificates for all the health tests that have been carried out on both parents. If the breeder seems disinterested in you as a purchaser, or is reluctant to answer your questions, they have little interest in the welfare of their puppies - just walk away and go to a breeder who really cares.

When you are happy with the breeder and the litter, select a puppy that does not seem shy or frightened and comes forward confidently. Make a noise (e.g. rattle a bunch of keys) to see if it attracts the puppy’s attention, as a check against deafness. Check the puppy’s ‘belly button’ to make sure it does not have an umbilical hernia. Once you have selected a puppy take photographs, or make a written note of any markings, so you can identify it next time you see it. Try to visit and handle it regularly until it is old enough to leave its mother. Good breeders will encourage this.

Collecting your Puppy
Make sure you have bought everything you need before you collect your puppy. Take puppy collar and lead so you can control the puppy and an old towel to put on your lap in case of ‘accidents’.

Make sure you get a written receipt for your money. Better breeders use a formal sale contract.

Book an appointment with the vet for a couple of days after you collect your puppy so it can have a health check and its first vaccination.

Book a place in advance on our beginners’ training course.